The Culinary Works

You may have driven by the humble yet charming brick building that houses Mulvaney’s B&L without realizing it was anything more than a unique piece of local architecture.  The unfussy nature of its occupant is evident by the small signage on the door.   It’s inviting in a casual and unique way, both outside and in.   The set up is entirely different with the kitchen prep area visible and the personality of the buildings former life left intact.   It’s quirky yet charming persona isn’t unlike its founder.

We recently had the pleasure of sitting down with a chef I respect and admire for his culinary integrity as well as his warm and humble nature.  Chef Patrick Mulvaney has been a Sacramento mainstay for years.   Prior to the opening of Mulvaney’s B&L, he operated a respected high end catering company called, The Culinary Specialists.   I have to confess, my business partner and I were fortunate enough to have Mulvaney in our corner as he frequently sent us catering business leads he couldn’t accomodate.   As thoughtful as this was, the down side was these folks were not excited to hear about us, they were disappointed that Culinary Specialists was busy on their special day and I can’t say I blame them.  

For a man with the success, accolades and respect he has earned via many years of sweat effort, he remains humble and grounded.  We talked about many things this day, including the ability for local chefs to source really great product, a topic he is clearly passionate about.   He truly seems to enjoy the freedom and ability he has to use only the products he feels are the very best and is willing to change his menu daily if needed to remain true to his culinary integrity, something not many chefs are up to.   Even mainstay items, such as the Pork Chops, which are sourced from Bledsoe Pork, a local family business Mulvaney has cultivated a relationship with, have ever changing side dishes to accomodate that days produce 'catch'.  

When we discussed the loyal B&L customers and their support of his vision, something he experienced from the beginning, he responded, “We have been so fortunate, our customers come in year after year to celebrate their occasions, to be able to be part of their special day is really an honor.”  He genuinely appreciates the unwaivering loyalty of his customer base, though he certainly has earned it.

When we sat down to eat, we were glad to be out on the patio.  Its pretty, casual and historic feel is special.   Our server warmly greeted us and we selected our wine from a nice list.   The Amuse Bouche, something Mulvaney has become known for, was a perfect compliment.   It was a small bite of puff pastry with a perfectly ripe peach and a touch of Bleu Cheese.   The idea is to give you a little bite to warm up your appetite.   I also find it generous and creative.

We started with the Heirloom Tomato salad with what we discovered was Mozzarella apparently "Fresh Pulled", or made to order.  It arrived warm and pillowy topped with flavorful Apollo olive oil and balsamic vinegar.   The Tomatoes were amazing and just added to the perfection of the cheese.  

They also brought thinly sliced bread with butter and pink salt.  I was reminded of pop rocks, in a salty way, and I really liked it.

We shared a Grilled Sea Bass entree, which intrigued me because of the sauce.  It was served with a Hatch Chili Red Wine Butter Sauce, Buerre Rouge.   I hadn’t thought of pairing Mexican chilis with a traditional French sauce but it really worked!   The chili flavor was present but very subtle, almost more of a background note giving the sauce an invisible depth of flavor.   The fish was perfectly seasoned and not overcooked.   It was served with a crispy polenta cake that had a fabulous texture as well as a crunchy Arugula and cherry tomato salad.   It was Excellent!!

We also shared the Gnocchi prepared with house made bacon and squash and heirloom tomatoes.  It was salty, sweet, creamy and the texture of the Gnocchi was very nice.   I can honestly say I have never tasted squash so sweet!  

Dessert is a critical part of every nice dinner and we chose the Pear Croustade.  Croustade is something that is supposed to simple, unfussy, straight forward and true to the ingredients.   No funny business is needed if the ingredients are top quality.   The crust was alternately crisp with a touch of scone like fluffiness and the peaches were very nice.   The Brandy Whipped Cream added a touch of sweetness nicely complimenting the slight tartness of the fruit.   I only wished that I had more room to enjoy it.  

Overall, the meal was fabulous.  The environment, the service, the food; everything is working in harmony at Mulvaney’s.   The guests around us were smiling, laughing and clearly enjoying their experience as well, creating a nice vibe.

The end result was undoubtedly a true reflection of Chef Mulvaney’s experience, dedication and love for what he is doing.  I found not only my conversation with him inspiring but the food as well.   I hope you will have the privilege of enjoying a similar experience at Mulvaney’s B&L very soon.