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Soup! It’s that time of year again. Nothing feels better on a cold stormy day than just the right bowl of soup. Did you know that in culinary school, soups are one of the first things you learn to cook. Why? Because they involve the most basic of cooking methods and it’s where students learn to apply these important methods to various recipes. Here is what I mean.There are two basic soup types, broth based or thickened. Broth based soups are pretty self-explanatory, the liquid is a broth of either meat or vegetables. Thickened soups become thick in a variety of ways. For example, the ever popular butternut squash soup is thickened by pureeing the main ingredient, squash. The same process applies for potato soup, however the starch in the potatoes assists in the thickening process. There are also other methods to thicken the liquid such as adding cream, as in leek soup. There is another method of thickening a soup using what is called ‘Veloute’. Veloute, one of the five mother sauces, is simply a stock thickened with a roux (fat and flour). I would compare it to very thin gravy. It is fabulous and very versatile. I promise I will write a recipe so you can learn to use it very soon.
In any case, no matter which soup you choose to do, the process is very similar. You always start by sautéing the aromatics, meaning the onion, celery, carrot herbs etc, depending on your recipe. Once they are transluscent or tender, you begin building your flavors, one on top of the other. Maybe you deglaze with a bit of wine and then add your favorite stock. Maybe you drop in a couple pieces of chicken. When the chicken is cooked, you take it out and shred it, returning it to the soup. Then you add some chopped veggies and when they are done, some noodles. Check for seasoning and enjoy homemade chicken noodle soup. Thickened is similar. For potato soup, you sauté the aromatics, deglaze, pour in enough stock to cover the potatoes, and puree them when they are tender. You have a thickened, hearty, potato soup. Master these basics and you have total creative freedom to add whatever you want based on what you have in the fridge. To me, potato soup must have bacon or ham, cheese, scallions and corn. Because I am totally comfortable with the basic process of making soup, I may throw together any number of things. It’s a great way to use up leftovers and/or stretch a buck.
Hint: Be very careful when you puree hot soups. If you can, invest in a hand blender. It’s much safer and does a great job for many kitchen applications (i.e. Milkshakes). For around $20, they are a great investment.
There is some debate on seasoning. Season as you go vs season at the end. Some believe you end up putting in more salt to get the same flavor if you wait until the end and some believe the opposite. I have also read studies, which suggest there is no significant difference in the amount of salt used either way. I was taught to season as you go and focus on building layers of flavor. Also, if the broth has a bit of seasoning, the vegetables will absorb a slight bit, which makes a huge difference in the flavor. It is the only chance you get to season the inside of the veggies. An important thing to remember is to under-season the broth because as it reduces, the salt will concentrate. If you season the broth to the salt taste you want at the end, and it reduces, the finished product will be WAY too salty.
Hint 2: When making soups, especially those with meat in them, it is very important you do not boil the soup. Rather than boiling the liquid, you should simmer it. Simmering means occasional bubbles surface vs the rapid bubbling of the boil. The high heat of a boil will just dry the meat out. I know that sounds crazy since the meat is floating in a Jacuzzi of liquid, but I promise it’s true. Ever had chicken noodle soup and the meat is totally dry. That’s why.
So for today, lets start with mastering a basic broth soup.
Beef, Mushroom and Barley
Slice a 1 lb chuck roast into 1-2 inch cubes and season with salt and pepper.
In a large stock pot, saute:
Brown the cubes of meat in a couple tablespoons canola oil
Remove from pan and set aside
Saute in the pot;
2 Cups Sliced Mushrooms
½ Large Onion, diced
2-3 Cloves of crushed Garlic
When the aromatics are tender, deglaze the pan with 1 cup of red wine. Add 3 boxes good quality beef stock, labeled low sodium.
Add:
¾ teaspoon dried Thyme
½ teaspoon dried Marjoram
OR 1 tablespoon of Herbs de Provence
And 1 bay leaf
Return the steak to the pot
Simmer until steak is cooked through and tender
Add:
1 cup Quick Cooking Barley
2 cups chopped carrot
Cook until barley and carrots are tender. Add 1 cup of good quality frozen peas and stir.
When the peas are hot, check for seasoning and add some fresh chopped parsley and thyme. Enjoy!
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